From Fortaleza to Jericoacoara
words by Steven van Akkersdijk and Axel Reese
Some of the world’s best lagoons are found in the north-west of Brazil. With so many lagoons around it’s always hard to know where to go. Some of the lagoons are more suitable for the pros and others are better for beginners. During the season you’ll also see a big change in size and depth of the lagoons. We’ve talked with Steven Akkersdijk to make a list with all you need to know about these little pieces of heaven between Fortaleza and Jericoacoara.
Tabuba
Standing depth: In the past years the shape of the lagoon changed a lot. The depth has always been ranging from waist/chest to knee deep.
Conditions for beginner and intermediates: Good, but take care for the street at the end of the lagoon and the sharp stones on the bottom.
Conditions for wakestyle pros:
Good, but this lagoon is not so famous for pros like the lagoons of Cauipe or Taiba.
Wind:
Similar to the wind conditions in Cauipe.
Frequency:
Well visited, but professionals are rare here. Really crowded over the weekends by the Brazilians who like to chill on the water’s edge.
Water conditions:
In winter 2016/2017, the lagoon has been relatively wide, which makes the water more lethal to lee.
Reachability:
The Tabuba Lagoon is located directly on the road from Fortaleza to Cumbuco.
Water quality:
Water quality is poor as there is no water flow. Don’t swallow the water and avoid going in with open wounds.
Special remarks:
On the weekends the lagoon is filled with sun bathing Brazilians.
Infrastructure:
On the downwind side from the lagoon there is a baraca. You’ll find bars and a supermarket in Cumbuco which is a ten-minute drive.
Cauipe
Standing depth:
The lagoon is continuously knee-deep or deeper.
Conditions for beginner and intermediates:
Good, but small. The lagoon gets smaller during the season up to the point that it’s hard to go upwind. Be aware of the water depth as it can get really shallow.
Conditions for wakestyle pros:
Outstanding. You’ll see a lot of the pros going crazy and throwing out their newest tricks.
Wind:
Not so strong as on the northern lagoons. Especially in the morning it does not necessarily have to blow with full strength.
Crowds:
At rush hour (mid-day) it can get very busy! The pros will all kite in a little circle. Even though it looks super crowded and unorganized there is a system in their riding. If people stick to the system it’s doable, but it can be easy to disturb it.
Water conditions:
Flat water, not choppy.
Reachability:
By car you can drive past Lagoa do Banana to the lagoon Cauipe. It takes 30 minutes from Cumbuco. You’ll be way faster with the 4×4 pick-up or buggy over the beach. Also recommended are downwinders from Cumbuco and back with the buggy taxi.
Water quality:
Water quality is poor as there is no water flow. Don’t swallow the water and avoid going in with open wounds.
Special remarks:
On the weekends the lagoon is very busy with a lot of local Brazilians chilling on the edge of the lagoon.
Insider tips:
In the morning until 10:00 am you are alone or only with a few other riders on the lagoon. Frequently, you can also meet the world champion Carlos Mario at these early hours!
Infrastructure:
You can find several baracas where you can get some food, as well as some locals walking around with juice and grilled cheese or chicken.
Taiba
Standing depth:
You can stand everywhere in this lagoon.
Conditions for beginner and intermediates:
The lagoon is rather elongated, so you cannot ride too much downwind. At the downwind side of the lagoon the water gets shallow and you’ll find some stones in the middle.
Conditions for wakestyle pros:
There is a little community with pro riders that prefer Taiba over the lagoons near Cumbuco. The lagoon is small and crowded but manageable due to way of riding.
Wind:
The wind is (a bit) stronger than in Cauipe.
Crowds:
Yes, here it is full and the professionals do not take too much consideration for non-pros.
Water conditions:
Finest flatwater conditions, not choppy.
Reachability:
This lagoon is located at the northern end of Taiba. To the south end of the lagoon you can still go by car. Otherwise only with buggy or 4×4.
Water quality:
There is nothing negative known.
Insider tips:
We recommend also a session in the early morning hours, then you can enjoy the lagoon all to yourself.
Infrastructure:
One baraca.
Lagoon north of Lagoinha
Standing depth:
Yes, standing depth.
Conditions for beginner and intermediates:
This lagoon has become a bit bigger in recent years. The kiteschool which is located in Lagoinha gives lessons on this lagoon.
Conditions for wakestyle pros:
Good, but stronger winds than in Cumbuco/Taiba.
Wind:
A few knots stronger than in Cauipe.
Crowds:
There are rarely more than 12 kiters on the water during the high season in November.
Water conditions:
Flat water, good conditions.
Reachability:
You can only reach by buggy or 4×4. A downwinder from Lagoinha is also optional.
Water quality:
We have not heard anything negative.
Special remarks:
The area in Lagoinha offers many kiting possibilities. The waves at Lagoinha form nicely and are cleaner due to the bay.
Infrastructure
No baracas, just a little hut for shade.
Ilha do Guajiru
One of the best locations to learn kiteboarding and have a taste of the local Brazilian culture.
This place is great for beginners as the waves are mellow and there is a lot of wind.
Standing depth:
A lot of standing depth.
Conditions for beginner and intermediates:
Very good conditions, however the strong winds can also make for overpowered conditions.
Conditions for wakestyle pros:
Bad for wakestyle due to chop and strong winds.
Wind:
Far more wind than further down in Cauipe or Taiba.
Crowds:
You’ll find a lot of people here in high season. But due to the large amounts of space it will never really get crowded.
Water conditions:
Choppy.
Reachability:
Good to reach by car.
Water quality:
No negatives known.
Special remarks:
Note that this spot is tide-dependant; it works only three hours before and after high tide.
Infrastructure:
This small place exists exclusively becuase of kitesurf tourism. The infrastructure with pousadas, restaurants and so on is now fully, and very well-suited to kitesurfers.
Icarai Lagoon
Standing depth:
At this very unknown lagoon you’ll find it hard to find places to stand. The ground also consists of mud, so not pleasant for walking
Conditions for beginner and intermediates:
Not too good. No standing depth and gusty winds, but it´s an option around Icarai.
Conditions for wakestyle pros:
Not perfect, due to chop and gusty wind. “I would never go to this place to train my wakestyle but for pictures it’s insane,” says Steven van Akkersdijk “So many backgrounds to shoot with.”
Wind:
On average about five knots more windspeed than in Cauipe, but very gusty.
Crowds:
You’ll be alone.
Water conditions:
Choppy water conditions because of the size of the lagoon and the water depth.
Reachability:
By car from Icarai within 20 minutes.
Water quality:
Good.
Insider tips:
Here you have a lot of wind and much space!
Infrastructure
No.
Remark
The town Icarai (also known as “Icaraizinho”) is a lovely, beautiful place to stay.
Icarai River Mouth
The river mouth in the north of Icarai is not a lagoon as it’s just a river mouth. However, this spot fully satisfies the requirements. The Mega Loop professional Steven van Akkersdijk, has been out at this spot a lot of times.
Standing depth:
No. The water get’s deep quick, but also depends on the tide.
Conditions for beginner and intermediates:
Not to good for beginners as the water is deep and there is some current. Good for intermediates.
Conditions for wakestyle pros:
Good. You’ll find perfect flatwater, but the wind is slightly gusty and there is some current which makes for a different take off.
Wind:
Mostly strong. 9 meter or smaller.
Crowds:
You’ll have all the space you need as not many people go here.
Water conditions:
Just one word: “perfect.”
Reachability:
Only reachable by buggy or 4×4.
Water quality:
It does not smell pleasant.
Special remarks:
Note that this spot is tide-dependent; works only three hours before and after low tide.
Insider tips:
This spot is a real crown jewel and mostly unknown. It is an excellent wakestyle spot, which is also suitable for huge loop sessions.
Infrastructure:
No.
Remark
The town Icarai (also known as “Icaraizinho”) is a lovely, beautiful place to stay.
Need to Know
Wind:
Steady wind conditions from July to January. The more north you go the more wind you get.
How to get to Fortaleza/Brazil:
From most major North American centers you will need to transfer planes in at least one airport en route to Fortaleza. Flights can usually be found for between $1500 and $2000. Anyone who has been to Brazil kiteboarding will tell you it is well worth it.
Documents: Americans and Canadians need a travel visa and valid passport for entry into Brazil. A travel visa (not a credit card) can take a few weeks and some paperwork to obtain. Once you have one, it’s valid for five years.
